How To Remove Yakima Lock Cores

Somehow (not certain exactly how...) I managed to unintentionally remove the lock cadre from my Yakima cargo box.

I tried inserting it using what I think is the special Yakima gilt key for just such purposes, but no such luck.

Looking at the picture below, seems the problem is that some of the lock cadre teeth (or whatever they're called) are not affluent (as they should be?). Possibly the golden fundamental is not universal, and the gilt key I'thousand using is from some other set up? Or maybe the lock cylinder was damaged upon the [unintentional] removal?

Thanks in advance for whatsoever feedback. (My nearest dealers announced to exist Dick'due south Sporting Goods and the notorious Chance Outfitters, so I don't hold out much promise there. Volition exist driving by West Hill Shop on Thursday, so that's another option.)

The cardinal you need is merely a blank Yakima key. If the gilded has been cutting (or whatever they do to put teeth on keys) it wont work. If y'all are still having trouble getting it in, yous tin purchase a new core and it will come with insertion key.

I have had the "teeth" sort of get stuck out when using the install key on my cores. I was ever able to got it to work by moving the primal in and out a bunch. that is until this fall, when patently the same thing happened while trying to remove cores from my wheel mountain. I never could go it out, or back in.

Mine are xiv years erstwhile so it makes sense that its article of clothing/corrosion related. Replacement might exist your all-time bet.

Your problem is it's not a Thule.

yes, from what information technology looks similar the "gold" key y'all have inserted is just the blank spare that came with your cores. If you didn't get it cut to lucifer the key the cores came with, it won't do a thing.

03:28 PM

Different box, different problem, possible same solution. Broke off the fundamental on my Thule. Played for an hour trying to get the slice out. Took it to a locksmith. He played with his special tools for 1/2 hour. $20. Maybe cost y'all $10? Another magazine might take your answer.

Oh, and brand sure you necktie or strap the lid airtight on the trip.

Quote Originally Posted by Jonathan S. View Post

Looking at the picture below, seems the problem is that some of the lock core teeth (or whatever they're called) are not flush (as they should be?). Maybe the gold primal is not universal, and the gold fundamental I'm using is from some other set? Or peradventure the lock cylinder was damaged upon the [unintentional] removal?

Your core is not unlocked completely, some of the pins are in the lock position. (this is clear in your picture)

The aureate key (no cuts) is used to install and remove the core when the core is completely unlocked.

Effort unlocking the core with your cut primal and pliers holding the core.
(or picking it for those pins) you need to be applying a twisting pressure while y'all work the pin around the cylinder -start from the back and work towards you

Then use the aureate -no cuts- key to install the core back into your housing.

If this doesn't work take your cut key into the store and effort and find a fix of cores that have the same cardinal lawmaking (this is the number stamped onto your cutting key) that mode y'all spend less by not having to buy 4+ new cores.

Yous should be able to fix this without a locksmith,
however whatever locksmith could correct your cadre in a few minutes (if non, and so they suck)

Good Luck

:edit: If you lose your keys and oasis't written down the imprinted code (institute on the primal) -hands replaced, or broken one off inside the slot

-you can drill out the core (use a metallic cutting bit) exist careful you don't damage the housing, the core should slide out with a lilliputian assistance from some pliers

The good news is that with all the feedback (cheers!) I figured out how to become the lock core so that all the pins are retracted.
The bad news is that even in that land, the lock core nonetheless can't be inserted fully into the lock housing. Hmm, why?
So looking dorsum at the lock cadre picture, you lot'll come across a petty protrusion at the lesser of the lock cadre. Not pictured is little protrusion on the side. These protrusions are fixed parts of the core, non pins. The relationship/orientation between these two protrusions is that if the lesser protrusion is at 12 o'clock, and so the side protrusion is at vii o'clock. The lock housing has a slot into which the side protrusion is clearly designed to fit, forth with low at the bottom that accepts the lock core's bottom protrusion. The problem is that the lock housing has a dissimilar orientation than that of the lock cadre.
I believe that the depression is the part that is moved by the action of the fundamental, and the depression when turned thereby moves the cargo box's interior slat back and forth.
The orientation is thereby off because the cadre was unintentionally removed when the lock was in a position other than "remove/supervene upon" and the lock cadre tin be reinserted only when in the "remove/supersede" position.
So, the solution would seem to be rotate the niggling depression relative to the lock housing, either by directly manipulating it, or by moving the interior metallic slat. Unfortunately, neither of these approaches is working...

Quote Originally Posted past ACHTUNG View Post

yep, from what it looks like the "gold" key you have inserted is just the bare spare that came with your cores. If you didn't get it cut to friction match the central the cores came with, it won't practice a affair.

the exact opposite of this is actually true. the gold key is intended to be a blank to install whatsoever/all yakima cores. i cannot believe anyone would actually have it cut to match the numbered keys.

Jonathan Southward. - if you are all the same having trouble, requite me a call at the shop. I fix this stuff for a living and have never failed.

I own a rack set on type shop - www.backcountryracks.com

And almost 8.5 years later, I did the same thing once again...
Immediately remembered that I had done this previously. And that I had I figured out the solution. At the time. But couldn't call up information technology at present.
Was about to post the trouble here, just and then remembered that I had posted well-nigh the trouble at the time.
Except I didn't post the solution back and so!

So after I posted again about this, think that I had concluded up just using a bunch o' bungees for that trip.
So either subsequently that season or the following flavour, a friend asked if a friend of his could infringe a cargo box from me.
Sure, but...
And somehow his friend fixed it.
But none of the three of employ could remember how at present.

I inspected the lock core this afternoon, and even swapped it into other products to ensure it was okay.
Then I realized that this had happened when I was testing diverse keys to run across which worked for what.
The core had popped out when I was using a Thule central, which just happens to unlock my Yakima box.
Withal, it also functions equally a core removal device!
I inserted the Thule key into the Yakima core again, and sure enough it depressed even more of the tumblers than does the Yakima removal blank.
I was able to rotate the Yakima box core cylinder (or whatever you desire to call information technology) by using a Torx x in the little low and by turning the box so that internal rail were motivated past gravity to move in the aforementioned direction that is controlled by rotated the core cylinder.
I somewhen I rotated it and then that the lock core matched up exactly.
(Whew!)

Last yr I had a trouble with Yakima lock cores that had not been used for 10 years.

I merely sprayed the shit out of them with WD40. Stick the crimson tube in the lock and the accumulated crap (clay, hard grease, road table salt) will drain out.

I just installed Yakima skyline towers (yeah, Thule = mos-def superior, only the yaks are the merely way to extend the **STUPID** 2022 factory subaru outback roof rack). 3 of the 4 lock cores went in no probs, but the 4th refused to lock in at that place. I swapped out lock cores a couple times and decided it was i of the towers that was messed upward. I looked carefully inside to come across if anything looked different, and sure plenty, there seemed to exist one more piffling cylindrical thingy in the "bad" i. Which looked totally like a manufactured part of the core cavity. Just eventually, I realized that thing had moved. It turned out to be a tiny, perfectly round cylinder of plastic, punched out from who-knows-where, that somehow wound up in in that location. In one case I pulled that tiny thing out, the core went in easily.

Short version: brand sure there is no foreign particle in there, preventing the core from going all the way in (in my case, it was similar well less than 0.5 mm from going in all the way, so cheque for any tiny thing).

I commutation yak lock sets between vehicles and racks fairly frequently. At each change I always blast the cores and towers with WD40 to make clean, wipe and dry, and so spray some dry graphite lube into and onto the cores and towers earlier assembly. Never an event with the lock function. And yeah, if the core doesn't insert cleanly and easily, something is amiss and usually needs farther prep.

06:51 PM

Yous tin't just exit racks on the car with no maintenance, I left a Thule rack on my golf for a bunch of years in a row and all the threaded adjustments froze solid, the good news is that no locks were necessary

So now I don't really employ locks on my new racks, also I take them off for the wintertime and smear a little permatex anti-seize in any threaded parts

WD stands for h2o displacing and twoscore is the 40th concoction buddy tried, so contrary to popular conventionalities WD40 is NOT actually a lubricant its more often than not a bunch of solvents that evaporate and go out a lilliputian chip of thick oil

I did seize the locks on my truck canopy this spring and I got them freed upwardly with a little heat from a propane torch and penetrating oil

For the record: my towers and lock cores were new. That bit of plastic found its way into the tower cavity at the factory.

Only yes, zero maintenance on installed rack hardware for years can be big-headache-inducing problem. Been there. Personally I am likewise distracted in general to e'er manage to schedule said maintenance. But *you lot* should, lol!

Yakima lock receptacles come with a plastic plug insert - maybe part of ane broke off and that's what yous found.

How To Remove Yakima Lock Cores

Yakima Lock Insertion?

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